Edinburgh City Guide

Edinburgh is one of those rare cities that looks exactly as magical as you imagine it will. The Castle looms over the Old Town, medieval closes wind downhill towards Holyrood, and the Georgian elegance of the New Town stretches out below like a perfectly planned stage set. But this is not a city that lives on its looks alone — Edinburgh has a cultural life that would put cities three times its size to shame.

The Fringe in August is the world's largest arts festival, but Edinburgh's creative energy doesn't switch off when the festival lights come down. The Traverse Theatre produces some of the UK's most adventurous new writing, the Usher Hall and Queen's Hall host stellar classical and jazz programmes, and the Voodoo Rooms and Sneaky Pete's keep the live music scene buzzing year-round.

The food and drink scene has matured beautifully. From the seafood restaurants along the shore in Leith to the independent coffee roasters and bakeries of Stockbridge, from craft gin distilleries to the city's thriving natural wine bar scene, there is no shortage of places to eat and drink well. The farmers' market at Castle Terrace on Saturdays is a highlight.

Edinburgh is wonderfully compact and best explored on foot, though the hills will keep your calves honest. Climb Arthur's Seat for one of the great urban panoramas in Europe, or take the gentler walk along the Water of Leith from Dean Village to the coast. Every corner reveals another view worth stopping for.